MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION (58 Days)

Introduction
We provide full support including all tents, all meals at BC and on the mountain, all oxygen, good walkie talkies, better than 1:1 sherpa ratio, satellite phones, internet-email to keep your sponsors and family happy and up to date, rescue service and plenty more, all managed by Jamie McGuinness who has summitted Everest severealtimes previously from Tibet, and ten other 8000m summits.

Summitting Everest later in May always safer. First, it is warmer, it is scary to think how many people got frostbite in the 2006 season by summitting early, including in the big commercial expeditions. Our 2006 team summitted at the beginning of the warm period, 25 May, without a single case of frostbite. Second, if the weather has already been good then the zoo is over. Third, if, as in 2004, the jet stream winds do not stop until very late in the season, we can still climb, we still have time and strength and have not been waiting forever. In 2005 many expeditions had to leave the mountain before they ever had a chance to mount a summit push. Our team summitted on 30 May and 4 June, 2005.

In 2007 there was an early window that let many teams summit (and the Norwegians turned back because the fixed ropes were so busy). We waited for the second window, which, due to jet stream peculiarities, took a while to come, but we summitted safely on 5 June, after 43 days at BC and above, so still not a long expedition.

outlined itinerary
9 April 2009
Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1350m
Day 2-3 - in Kathmandu
Two free days in Kathmandu for relaxing, packing and preparing. You can leave any gear which you don't need during the expedition at the hotel. We keep your international air ticket at the office in case any changes need to be made while you are climbing.
Day 4 - drive  Zhangmu ~2400m
Early in the morning we take a private bus along the Friendship Highway to Kodari where we pass through Nepalese customs then cross the Friendship Bridge and climb to Zhangmu, the Chinese border town.
Day 5 - drive Nyalam 3750m
Day 6 - rest day in Nyalam 3750m
Day 7 - drive Tingri - 4350m
A spectacular day as we cross the main Himalayan range, driving over the 5150m Lalung La. If the weather is clear the views are absolutely superb, including Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Everest.
Day 8 - rest day Tingri - 4350m
Day 9 - drive Everest Base Camp 5150m
Day 10-15 - acclimatize at Everest BC
Depending on the weather, we may explore around BC (there are some fun places to camp at) for around a week or move up to ABC more quickly.
Day 16 - trek Interim camp 5600m
Day 17 - trek ABC 6400m
Day 18-21 acclimatize at ABC
We have a puja to show respect for the mountain.
Day 22-53 (latest) climbing
We plan one longer acclimatization trip on the mountain and we may make a second trip up to North Col. We will return to BC to recover before making a summit attempt. We summit as a team in one or two groups. In general solo summit attempts without lots of backup are not possible.
Day 54 - ABC packing
Day 55 - Trek to BC
Day 56 - drive Kathmandu
Day 57 - Kathmandu
Day 58 - Monday 9 June 2008 - depart Kathmandu

What is included In Kathmandu
We pick you up at the airport and provide a single hotel room so you can spread gear out, and our store with a huge grassy area is just around the corner. Because we provide all tents, oxygen, dehy meals on the mountain etc, you should be able to get to Kathmandu without extra freight charges (which can be BIG, sometimes).

Tibet
We handle all the paperwork for the Chinese visa and all the Tibet travel and climbing permits. All sightseeing, hotels (double rooms), and meals are included.

Base Camp and ABC
At base camp we have a permanent kitchen with cook and helpers, large dining tent and smaller ones as required, solar power and/or generator for recharging, radio contact with ABC and camps on the mountain, and internet. We provide 1 BC tent per member (a two-three person tent). We provide three good meals a day and afternoon tea, plus all hot drinks and boiled water for drinking. At ABC we provide the same.

We have good solar power systems providing 12v, 115v and 230v, so you can charge all digital cameras, video cameras, battery packs and laptops.
We have two laptops available for exclusive use of our teams. Email via Outlook is free. Alternatively for heavier laptop users please bring your own but you must have a 12v adaptor to charge it. Note that not all laptops work at 5000m+.
You can surf the web too, but in the past it was expensive. For 2007 we are looking at new arrangements for this.

Climbing
All mountain tents and meals (a good variety; Enertia are our favorites), gas and stoves are included. Fixed rope charges are included. The sherpas are responsible for stocking all the camps; carrying the oxygen, tents, gas and meals. They normally climb separately from the team until the summit push. The sherpas don't carry your personal gear (but you can pay extra for a personal sherpa).

We climb on the mountain mostly as a team or two with the guide and assistant guide. You can climb up to North Col alone as well though.

Oxygen
We use Poisk oxygen and will have up to 5x 4 litre bottles available for each climber. For C3 to the summit all oxygen is Poisk, factory-new. No refilled. We include sherpa oxygen separately.

Weather reports
With good internet we have access to a variety of weather reports, and we subscribe to a paid weather forecast too. Judging the weather is one of the most important issues surrounding climbing Everest.

Emergency evacuation
We have a PAC bag usually stationed at ABC, and emergency oxygen at ABC and BC, plus full medical kits. If you have to leave the mountain early alone or as two people then there will be a charge of $700. If you are a group of three or four then there is unlikely to be a charge but it may be a while before your baggage arrives in Kathmandu.

Medical
We have a comprehensive medical kit at BC and ABC. You should be prepared with a SMALL personal med kit for on the mountain. Jamie is used to dealing with altitude issues and intestinal problems and other minor medical issues.

We have a doctor available for consultations for our 2007expedition.

Environment
We remove all garbage from ABC to BC, and this includes toilet waste. This is then disposed of by the Chinese. We plan to remove toilet waste from at least North Col too.

Departure
Although we all travel in together, you can leave separately provided you are 3-4 climbers travelling together. Our office in Kathmandu holds your international tickets and so can arrange flights out to suit.

Timeline
You must book and pay a $3000 deposit AT LEAST 3 months prior to the expedition start to guarantee the availability of tents, oxygen etc. (You should also book you international flights at least 3 months, and better 6 months in advance...)

Insurance
This is your choice. It is sometimes possible to get insurance for 8000m peaks thru your national alpine club; the BMC in the UK and American Alpine Club offer particularly good packages. There is no helicopter rescue possible in Tibet so evacuation is by Landcruiser to Kathmandu, and should cost around US$700. There is one particularly good clinic in Kathmandu otherwise the nearest high standard hospital is Singapore or Bangkok. All our Nepali staff are insured.

Warning
Everest is the highest mountain on the planet and despite some of the publicity it is not 'easy' or even 'straightforward'. It is a very serious peak and bad judgment or even bad luck can be fatal up there. Even with the best companies the risk of death and frostbite is real.

For further inquiry please feel free to mail at: enquiry@tibet-adventures.com